A few responses that will hopefully address your concerns in starting with the weaker case:
1) The cover has detents (the little bent in tabs on the left and right side) that clip it onto the cylinder that make the approach linked in the Schlage video considerably more fussy - especially when combined with the deadring (the metal 'dog cone' not pictured that spins freely and prevents one from prying the cylinder off with a large moment arm).
Why? Well the two screws exposed work in harmony to pull it flush against the deadring. This makes it considerly more difficult to get purchase to non-destructively 'pop it off' as you are righly concerned about.
The cover on the Schlage lock is designed to come off in the field, and those screws are meant to be mounted on the interior not exterior - the Schlage lock video has their product missinstalled.
But ok, let's say you do pop off the cover - or drill through it - then what?
2) Well then you have access to the 'wrong' end of the screw that mounts the interior bolt to the exterior lock cylinder. Presumably, you then try use something like a screw-extractor bit to drill into the bottom end of the screw and back it out. But back it out into what exactly? The interior Bolt module is mounted to a plate - if you back these screws out from the outside they won't have enough tolerance to drop out - they pretty immediately back into the module itself. Perhaps you can get some leverage - but the nature of the deadring prevents you from getting any purchase. If you try force the lock off the door at this point, the deadring spins freely.
The Bolt uses the same concepts as double sided cylinder locks in this sense. You need access from the inside to remove the screws otherwise you're 'backing the screws out' into a solid object.